Monday, October 23, 2017

Chocolate Ice Cream: Good in All Centuries

Chocolate Ice Cream

Recipe Provenance
The following recipe comes from a collection of recipes found in a manuscript journal located in the H. Furlong Baldwin Library at the Maryland Historical Society in Baltimore. The manuscript is attributed to Ann Maria Morris and the date of 1824 is written on the inside cover. The recipe below is one of many from the manuscript that will be included in a book I am writing. The book will contain biographical information about Mrs. Morris, an annotated transcript of the entire manuscript as it was written, and a section of modern recipe adaptations (including this one!).

The Recipe: Chocolate Cream

Scrape three ounces of chocolate & dissolve it in boiling water, boil one quart of new milk & one pint of cream with vanilla until seasoned, then stir in the dissolved chocolate, and beat the yelks of 8 eggs with ½ a lb. sugar, put the whole into the kettle & boil 15 minutes longer stirring all the time to prevent its burning.



Modern Recipe Adaptation: Chocolate Ice Cream
Makes 1 Quart

Ingredients:
  • 1 1/2 Ounces Grated Chocolate, Unsweetened
  • 1/4 Cup Water, Boiling Hot
  • 2 Cups Whole Milk
  • 1 Cup Heavy Cream
  • 1/2 Cup Sugar
  • 4 Egg Yolks
  • 2 Teaspoons Vanilla Extract

Directions:

  1. Read Ice Cream Maker Manufacturer's guidelines for freezing the bowl. Then, proceed to make the custard in step #2,
  2. In a saucepan, whisk together the chocolate and water until most of the chocolate dissolves. Add the milk, cream, and sugar. Place on medium heat and continue to whisk together until the mixture reaches about 175º F. 
  3. Whisk together the egg yolks in a medium bowl and set aside.
  4. Temper the EggsAdd about 1/4 cup of the hot mixture to the eggs and stir. Add the eggs to the hot cream in the saucepan and whisk.
  5. Return the custard to the stove and cook on low heat for a few minutes, until the custard reaches about 160º F and coats the back of a spoon.
  6. Add the vanilla extract and stir thoroughly.
  7. Place the custard in a covered container and cool in the refrigerator for several hours or overnight. 
  8. When the custard is completely cold, follow ice cream maker manufacturer's directions to make the ice cream.

Monday, October 9, 2017

To Pickle October Peaches


Source: Wikimedia Commons

Recipe Provenance
The following recipe comes from a collection of recipes found in a manuscript journal located in the H. Furlong Baldwin Library at the Maryland Historical Society in Baltimore. The manuscript is attributed to Ann Maria Morris and the date of 1824 is written on the inside cover. The recipe below is one of many from the manuscript that will be included in a book I am writing. The book will contain biographical information about Mrs. Morris, an annotated transcript of the entire manuscript as it was written, and a section of modern recipe adaptations (including this one!).


The Recipe: To Pickle October Peaches 
Take 2 Doz. peaches & rub them clean & put them in a pot. take 2 pounded nutmegs, some blades of mace, whole cloves & scraped horse-radish and put into cold cider vinegar, pour it on the peaches & cover the pot close –

About This Recipe
Many recipes for pickled peaches include sugar; however, this recipe does not. The regular peach season in Maryland ends in September but this recipe is meant for peaches available in October. This is one of those times when it would have been very helpful if the recipe contained more information, such as the particular variety of peach for which it was intended. Also, it is hard to know if the lack of added sugar in the ingredient list was intended to emphasize an inherent lack of natural sweetness in late season peaches, or, reflect that the type of peach used was excessively sweet and did not warrant the addition of granulated sugar to the pickle liquid. I split the difference because I used late-season peaches I found at a local farmer's market that were neither excessively sweet, nor were they completely lacking in sweetness. 

Modern Recipe Adaptation: Pickled Peaches
Ingredients:
  • 6 Large Late-Season Peaches
  • 3 Cups Apple Cider Vinegar
  • 1 Cup Water
  • 1 Teaspoon Ground Nutmeg
  • 1 1/2 Teaspoons Whole Blade Mace
  • 1/4 Teaspoon Powdered Horseradish
  • 15 Whole Cloves
Directions:
  1. Wash the whole peaches and set aside.
  2. In a 3-quart saucepan, mix together the vinegar water, and spices. Add the peaches and bring this mixture to a boil. Then, reduce heat to low and simmer for 20-30 minutes, until the peaches are soft but still hold together.
  3. Remove from the heat and transfer the peaches to a refrigerator-safe container (either a quart-size canning jar or plastic container with lid). Then, pour the hot pickling liquid over the peaches.
  4. Refrigerate the peaches. Or, you can make a larger quantity and use the hot water bath canning method to preserve them.